Skylights and rooflights for the bungalows and estates of Brayton

27.5 road miles east of Leeds city centre

Skylight installation in Brayton for bungalows, semis and newer estate homes, with sun tunnels and rooflights for the bungalow hall that has no window of its own.

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Cut-away drawing of a stone house: daylight from a roof lantern falls down the stairwell and into the landing and the rooms below.

Rooms Brayton's bungalows and estate homes plan away from the windows

Bungalow and estate plans in Brayton put some rooms between the outside walls, where no window can reach them.

  • Bungalow hallA bungalow's central hall has doors on both sides and no window of its own.
  • Converted garageWhere a converted garage’s only window replaced the old door, the far end stays shaded.
  • Inner bathroomBathrooms planned toward the centre of a house can have no outside wall to hold a window.

How a Brayton bungalow roof can bring in daylight

Sun tunnels for bungalow halls and bathrooms come first. Roof coverings and permission on a newer estate follow.

Can a sun tunnel light the hall and bathroom of a Brayton bungalow?

A typical bungalow plan runs like this: a hall running through the middle with doors off it, a bathroom set toward the centre, and the bedrooms and living room around the edge where the windows are. That arrangement leaves the hall and the bathroom with no wall to the outside, and a bulb burning all day.

A bungalow has only a loft between those rooms and the roof, so the tube of a sun tunnel has a short, direct run. A dome on the slope gathers daylight, a polished tube carries it across the loft void, and a ceiling diffuser spreads it through the room.

Why short and straight matters

The shorter and straighter the tube, the more light arrives at the bottom. Over a given distance a rigid tube delivers more light than a flexible tube, so on a bungalow, where the run is brief, a rigid one is nearly always possible. A flexible section is kept for the occasional jog round a timber.

What sits in the loft

The tube has to find a path between roof timbers, past water pipes and cable runs, and clear of any tank or flue. On the survey we look into the loft from the hatch and work out the line before choosing a size. The loft insulation is pulled back for the tube and laid round it afterwards. A tube is usually slim enough to pass between the rafters without cutting any. Where the line would cross a rafter or joist that has to be cut, the job counts as structural work.

Getting the dome on the right slope

A dome on a south or west slope gathers the most daylight through the day, and one on a north slope gives steadier, softer light. The best slope is the one that gives the tube its shortest run, so the choice is made with the loft plan in hand. The dome is flashed to suit the roof tile it sits in.

What the room gains

A bathroom that only had a bulb gets daylight for the first time. A hall that was a tunnel between doors begins to read as a proper space, and the doors off it look brighter when they are open.

Beyond the bathroom

The same approach works for a windowless hall, a utility room or a corridor. A converted garage can also take a tunnel where the roof sits close above its far end. Where one room is much larger than the others, a roof window may be a better answer than a tunnel, and we compare the two for each room.

Myth: A sun tunnel only works on a sunny day.
Fact: The tube gathers daylight from the whole sky, so it brings light to the room in cloudy weather too, though less of it.
Myth: A tunnel needs the roof opened as wide as a window.
Fact: A tunnel's tube generally slips between neighbouring rafters, so the roof is disturbed far less.

Does a pantile or concrete tile roof change how a roof window is fitted?

Clay pantiles are the S-shaped tiles that give a roof its rippled look. Concrete tiles are the usual covering on later houses, and they come flatter or deeper according to the make. A slate roof is thinner and flatter than either.

A roof window sits on top of that covering. The covering is cut back to the frame, and a flashing kit leads rain away round the frame to the tiles below. That kit has to fit the profile of the covering, or the gaps at the edge of the frame let water in.

Why the profile matters

On a flat slate the kit lies close and neat. On a profiled tile, the kit has to rise and fall with the waves of the tile, so it comes with a deeper skirt of its own. A kit made for one tile on a roof of another leaves gaps at the sides of the frame.

Cutting tiles around the opening

Tiles around the opening are lifted, cut or set aside and relaid in courses. Clay pantiles are lifted whole where possible so that the old ones go back. On concrete tile, the cut edges are neat and the lap over the flashing is kept.

The inside of the frame

Under the slope, the opening is framed with timber trimmers and then lined, so the daylight passes through a neat, plastered shaft. In a single-storey loft the shaft is short, which keeps the light strong at the ceiling. The lining is insulated, so it does not become a cold spot in the ceiling.

Roof pitch

A window has a range of pitches it is designed for, and low-pitched roofs need a flashing and an underlay detail suited to them. Bungalow roofs can be shallow, so we measure the pitch and pick the window to suit it.

Matching tiles afterwards

Tiles lifted around the opening go back where they came from, so the roof keeps the weathered look of the rest of the slope. Where one has to be replaced, we look for a tile close to the old one in colour and profile, and set it beside the opening where it is least noticeable from the road.

Choosing between makes

Both VELUX and other makes go in here, and the unit is picked by the gap between the rafters, the covering and the room beneath.

Roof coverings and the flashing they need

CoveringProfileFlashing kit
Welsh slateThin and flatKit for a shallow covering
Concrete tileDeeper, often with a ridgeKit for a deeper tile
Clay pantileS-shaped, wavyKit that follows the wave

Our house is on a newer estate in Brayton, so can it still have a rooflight?

Newer estate homes come with a planning history of their own. When an estate was approved, the council could attach conditions to the permission, and one of those can remove the permitted development rights that would normally let a householder add a rooflight without an application.

Brayton falls under North Yorkshire Council, a unitary council, so that is where the question goes. The normal position for a house, and the conditions behind it, are in our skylight planning guide.

Where to look first

Your house deeds may mention restrictions, and the council's planning register will show conditions on the original permission. If either mentions the roof or extensions, say so at the survey, so we can take it into account in the written quote.

What the quote carries

The written quote is fixed and names the room and the size of rooflight. We notify Building Control if the work is notifiable.

Flats and maisonettes on an estate

Some newer estates include flats or maisonettes. A flat does not get the householder's permitted development allowance for roof work, so the council should be asked first.

Roofs in newer homes

Houses on newer estates often have roofs built from factory-made timber trusses, which are designed as a set and should not be cut like ordinary rafters. A new opening there means the structure around it is altered and checked, and that is part of what we check in the loft before any size is agreed.

If an application is needed

Needing an application does not stop the work. If the council has to be asked, we tell you at the survey, and you can decide whether to go ahead.

Estate paperwork explained

Planning condition
A requirement attached to a planning permission, sometimes removing rights that would otherwise apply.
Covenant
A restriction in a property's deeds that limits what the owner may build or alter.
Permitted development
Work the national rules allow without an application, if their conditions are met.

Across the Selby side

Beyond Brayton itself we cover Selby, Thorpe Willoughby, Snaith, Sherburn in Elmet, Knottingley, Ferrybridge and Tadcaster. The work is backed by our 10-year workmanship guarantee. Call 0113 436 0654 to talk a job through.

Sun tunnel and roof window questions from Brayton

How long can a sun tunnel tube be before it stops working well?

Light is lost along the tube, so the shorter and straighter the run, the brighter the room. A rigid tube beats a flexible one over the same distance. On a bungalow the run is short, and we measure it before we say whether a tunnel will do the job.

Can a roof window and a sun tunnel share the same roof?

A roof window can light a landing or a loft room while a sun tunnel serves a bathroom or hall on the same roof. Each is placed where its own room sits below, and the rafters between them are left uncut wherever the layout allows.

What happens to the loft insulation around a tube or light well?

Insulation is drawn back from the tube or the light well while the unit goes in, then laid back round it, so the ceiling keeps its thermal layer. Around a light well the lining is insulated as well, which helps the unit meet the Part L standard.

How large is the dome on a sun tunnel compared with a roof window?

The dome is a good deal smaller than a roof window. So a tunnel is often chosen where a large unit would be too much for the slope of the roof. We compare the room, the slope and the loft before suggesting one.

Does a roof window need a different glazing from a sun tunnel dome?

A roof window carries double or triple glazing in a frame that has to meet the Part L figure for windows, while a sun tunnel dome is a rooflight-type unit with its own tube and diffuser. We pick glazing for each room separately, since a bathroom and a bedroom ask different things of their glass.

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What happens next We arrange a survey, then send a fixed written quote. Nothing is booked until you say yes.